First rotation

As soon as the weather allowed, the Sherpa team set out to fix the ropes on Broad Peak. To make the most out of the good weather, we followed a few hours later in their trail, just late enough to minimize rockfall risk.


携帯はロック解除しようね

長期の海外の旅行・遠征などに行く前に、携帯(スマホ)の”ネットワークロック”は解除しておいた方がいい。特に山奥など離れた田舎に向かうと、現地の特定のキャリアじゃないと一切つながらないこともある。そして現地でそのキャリアのSIMを買っても、端末自体のネットワークロックを事前に解除しないと、使えない。

大した手続きではないが、現地からちゃちゃっとできるようなものでもない。auやdocomoはウェブから申請して、場合によっては請求もあって、うん日経ってようやくロック解除のコードが入手できる。別に現地のSIM使う予定がない場合でも、緊急対応で急に使いたくなることもある。ロック解除して(手数料以外は)損しないからやっといた方がオススメ。

一方でiPhoneや一定の時期以降購入した端末はロックされてないことも多いので、事前に念のため確認した方がいい。


The weather days

For the past week, we’ve been waiting for two things: first, for the team cargo to arrive, and second for the weather to clear.


Broad Peak base camp

Very early start today, I assume to avoid glacier melt as much as possible. Woke up before it even started getting bright. The terrain the same rolling glacier landscape as the days before. Lots of up-and-down, pretty exhausting.


To Goro II

Once again I got scammed. Every day they’d tell us something like “breakfast at 7, we leave at 8” then they’d be shaking my tent at 6 and we’d hit the trail before 7. So today I was way ahead of the announced schedule, but they were yet another half an hour early.


Onto the glacier

Pretty tough and long hike. Loose rocks all the way made it really exhausting. The Sherpas were of course moving really quick, so I felt pretty drained when we stopped for lunch.


Reaching shade

20km or so trek to Paju camp (about 3300m). Only 200m gain, but lots of up-the-cliff down-to-the-river all day so my watch was saying 700m climb total.


The Drive

Had a huge breakfast at the hotel since we were up to a 6-7 hour drive.


Skardu here I come

After ten hours at Doha airport I mostly spent just walking around aimlessly, it was time to now fly to Islamabad. The flight wasn’t long, but it was just long enough to both have a short nap and watch The Matrix: Resurrections. I’d probably need to watch that movie like two more times to be able to form a coherent opinion on it.

Getting through border control was much smoother than I expected. They just asked a few questions to see if I get too stressed out, kinda how Americans do it too. All my baggage arrived in one piece too, so shortly I was on my way to my hotel for the night. A night much shorter than I’d like… Since my flight on to Skardu was at 6am in the morning, it meant I could only get 4-5 hours of sleep, and while a shower helped get in the mood, I still kept waking up every half an hour from weird dreams in a panic that I overslept.


Halfway there

Ten hours transit at Doha airport. Sleeping is always an option, though with these time differences I’m not sure it’s a good idea. The airport is crowded (and of course about half the people don’t care about the mask requirement) so finding an open seat near a power outlet was a challenge. But at least there’s this weird yellow lamp-bear thing.