Tag: hegymász

Onto the glacier

Pretty tough and long hike. Loose rocks all the way made it really exhausting. The Sherpas were of course moving really quick, so I felt pretty drained when we stopped for lunch.


Reaching shade

20km or so trek to Paju camp (about 3300m). Only 200m gain, but lots of up-the-cliff down-to-the-river all day so my watch was saying 700m climb total.


The visa ordeal

I’ve been planning an expedition to Broad Peak and K2 for almost two years now. At first the plan was to climb last summer, but then covid ruined that. The expedition was then rescheduled to this summer, while last summer I visited Denali instead. However my departure to Pakistan faced some unexpected obstacles.

In flight towards Denali

のこぎりひので

大型遠征が近づくと、体力を整えるためにトレーニングで行く登山の時間も伸びるが、毎週毎週同じ道歩くのも飽きる。御岳から名栗湖に抜けるルートは楽しいが、代替もほしいので今度は奥多摩から鋸山、大岳山、御岳山と日の出山を超えるルートを試してみた最初行ったときは逆方向で御岳から登ったが、日の出山から下るようにすることで終わったらつるつる温泉に入れるのでありがたい。


棒が折れた

御嶽駅から惣岳山超えて岩茸石山を往復するのは定番のトレーニングルート。往復で3時間ちょいで始発で行くなら午前中に家に帰れる半日の計画。一方で電車の方も同じぐらいの時間がかかってちょっともったいないの気持ちにもなる。それと、大型遠征が近づくとトレーニングで動きたい時間も長くなるから3時間じゃ足りない。新穂高から西穂か槍行く手はあるが、金銭的に東京周辺がありがたい。時間的に雲取山も選択肢に入るが、そこはあまりにもルートがおもしろくなくて毎週のようには行きたくない。岩茸石山のルートでずっと気になってた「関東ふれあいの道」を調べたらひらめいた。


Getting advanced mountain gear in Japan

You’d expect that with Japanese people being among the top mountaineers on 8000 peaks, the country having a healthy scene for winter sports it shouldn’t be hard to get advanced mountain gear, right? Let’s share some stories.


My tents

The first time I spent nights in the mountains was back in 2018, when I hiked from Mt Kobushi all the way to Mt Mizugaki. At that point I was staying in mountain huts, so I didn’t need a sleeping bag or mat. I think my first time sleeping in a tent in the wild was actually in the foothills of Elbrus in 2019 (not counting sleeping in a tent during summer festivals back in Hungary). Then it was even later, the summer of 2020 that I first stayed in my own tent during a multi-day trip. It was soon after that I actually hiked up a mountain, Mt Kai-koma to stay in a tent at altitude.


V3

Sikerült jó hosszú napot csinálnom magamnak. A szikla/falmászós bagázzsal mentünk (sokadjára) mászni a mitakei folyópartra. Egy egész kis könyvnyi, sokféle nehézségű probléma van a folyóparton. Mivel közigazgatásilag ez még Tokió, ráadásul ha jár a Holiday Rapid, akkor átszállás nélkül ida lehet a belvárosból jutni, nagyon népszerű (úgy általában kirándulóhelyként is). A sziklákat (a rücskös és fájdalmas Mizugaki-beliekkel ellentétben) itt a folyó relatíve simára csiszolta az évek alatt, így bár nem tépi véresre a bőrt, cserébe csúszik.


Last tent hike of the year

For literally years now I’ve been wondering how could I get up on Kasagatake. This mountain in the northern Japanese Alps is right above Shin-Hotaka. You get a really good view of it from the ropeway up Nishi-Hotaka and you hike by its trailhead on the way up to Sugoroku. The problem is that it’s a long, tough and steep straight climb which means doing it in one day is not fun. I didn’t know of a way to get there for an early enough start either unless I stayed a night in Shin-Hotaka—until now. Once you learn of the Mainichi Alpen-go (and manage to secure a seat) things get much easier.


Training for Denali

Of the Seven Summits, there are two I am (was) particularly concerned about. Puncak Jaya (the Carstensz Pyramid) because of how technical it’s said to be, got me to start bouldering and practice moving around on more “exciting” rocky terrain. The other is Denali.

Moving on snow in a rope team for crevasse safety isn’t the issue. Climbing up on steep slopes or along knife-edge ridges with fixed lines isn’t the issue. Those are skills that you can “just” learn and they become another useful wrench in your toolbox. Having the physical fitness to load carry up to the 14000 (feet) camp was what worried me.